Not far from Prague’s south western borders is Pivovar Všerad, a microbrewery that years ago caught our attention at beer festivals for their superb light lager. We finally decided to make the short trip to their pleasant village microbrewery and wash down a heavy Czech lunch with a few pints of their fresh lager straight from the source.
Brewing began at Pivovar Všerad in 2013, and shortly thereafter is when we first tasted their light lager at a Naplavka Pivobrani. Czech malt and Saaz hops are used for their lagers, and for ales and beers that require a unique aroma, they’ll use American hops. They brew the traditional Czech way, which means at least one decoction. This is a small scale operation, only brewing 500 hectoliters per year. Since then, they’ve expanded their production to include more styles of bottom fermented beers, as well as a few ales and special beers.
We love their 11° light lager; it’s thirst quenching, conversational, and compliments any cuisine. Their amber lager is also lovely, with a soft, caramelized fullness to the body, and it still has that crisp Czech hop finish. Their ales are also nicely done. For a great beer to cool down with on a hot summer day, the 8° Session Ale is remarkably bitter for such a low alcohol beer, and a pleasant change from a light lager for beating the heat.
6 taps pour fresh beers at Všerad’s homey pub. You can try their 11° light and amber lagers, a 12° Vienna style lager (Senator), and a 12° Australian Pale Ale, Protinozec, plus one seasonal beer. At the time of our visit, their seasonal beer was their 8° Summer Ale, a light, session style ale that was perfect for cooling down in the heat of the afternoon.
Deliciously heavy and designed with a cold mug of beer in mind, the cuisine at Pivovar Všerad is simply excellent. Portions are huge and the kind that induce food comas, so be aware. We loved their duck, slow roasted and served with a variety of fluffy dumplings and sweet and sour red cabbage. Their schnitzel was tender and juicy, and again, of epic proportions. They also have tasty beer snacks, like beef tartar steak and marinated cheeses.
Prices for their beer and food are a bargain when compared to what you pay in Prague for something of much worse quality. Service is friendly, but don’t expect much English. They also sell 1 liter PET bottles to go. For activities other than drinking beer, there’s a mini-golf course, bike rental, a small kids playground, and a little museum about the name sake of the brewery, Magdalena Dobromila Rettigová. They also have on the brewery grounds simple accommodation.
These days, as many of the Czech microbreweries brew almost exclusively ales and hop on every beer trend as fast as possible, the old school beer styles like lagers (and all of their variants) have fallen by the wayside. The winner of the lager comparison we did last year, Vserad’s lager is an example of Czech handicraft at its best. Pivovar Všerad shows that microbreweries still have something to re-invent, even with the most functional of beer styles, a good old light lager. Which in itself, a light lager is no simplistic thing.
The rolling hills around the Berounka river are full of forests, cycle paths, and villages that host a few microbreweries. You have MMX in Lety, Pivovar Bobr in Zadní Třebaň, and Pivovar Berounský Medvěd in Beroun. One could easily enjoy a cycling brewery tour of the area, (which would take a certain level of stamina both on the bicycle and with drinking), and perhaps an overnight stay.
To get to Pivovar Všerad from Prague does require a bit of planning. Going by bus is horrifically difficult and takes more time than by train. If planned well, a train ride takes just over an hour and includes one change. The first train departs from Hlavní Nadrazi and heads in the direction of Beroun, but you’ll get off in either Zadní Třebaň or Lochovice. There you’ll change to one of those charming little red trains that’ve been running since what looks like the 1950’s, and in about 15 minutes, you’ll find yourself in Všeradice. The microbrewery is located north and slightly east of the train station.
Travel links (Czech Republic)
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